Montevideo’s historic quarter, Ciudad Vieja–the Old City. It’s the most charismatic part of Uruguay’s capital–shabby in parts and gentrified in others.
From Plaza Independencia toward the port, you delve into another era. Colonial houses are everywhere–some gray and crumbling, others restored into pastel-painted charm. Ironwork balconies, siesta-time shutters, and heavy wooden doors feature heavily, but there’s no standard style. Buildings are neo-classical, art deco, or reminiscent of Belle Epoque France.
Comparing Old Montevideo with other Central and South American colonial cities is difficult. For one thing, there’s little sign of an indigenous Amerindian population. You won’t find the same colorful exoticism of Granada in Nicaragua, or the central Mexican cities founded by Spanish conquistadores.
Yet its low-key ambience is appealing: elegant tree-shaded plazas…wine bars and swish new galleries…the pizzerias and mom-and-pop grocery stores. Its Saturday flea-market is an alternative to the larger Sunday one in Centro district.
Ciudad Vieja has been given a facelift and this is attracting many young professionals to live in the neighborhood
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